Since my last blog leading up to Christmas 2016, I can't believe where time has gone......
The Bushtracker has been waiting patiently with just a couple of minor events. Firstly, a very short trip down to Millbrook near Albany to visit our friends Kris & David, who were back on the farm for a few months, having left Taipan in Holland for the Winter. If you are interested in Kris's excellent blog of their sailing adventures since 2004, you can find it at www.svtaipan.blogspot.com.au/
The second event was the warranty replacement of the Isotherm Fridge in the Bushtracker. It had performed badly on the trip to Albany and was finally diagnosed with an ongoing internal gas leak. The Australian agents, Webasto, decided to replace it rather than attempt repairs. They sent a new fridge over from NSW, Bushtracker provided new fitting frames and attachments and I had it professionally installed by Perth Caravan Repair Centre. All good now. Great to have a reliable fridge and freezer again.
Jean & I should just about have been returning from our European trip about now, but in the end we had to cancel, in the hope that maybe it will happen next year. Our Great Dane Axel, who was diagnosed with a terminal congenital heart condition last year, continues to survive well, sustained by a very expensive drug regime involving a series of different drugs at 8 and 12 hour frequencies. It would have been impossible to put him in kennels and we couldn't ask anyone else to take responsibility as he could have died at any time. Part of the joys of being a responsible pet owner. I can't believe we have had him for six years already, but probably not for very much longer.
Finally, I have been in the wars over the last couple of months. First I fractured a finger joint and snapped a tendon, which resulted in a finger splint for 8 weeks. Then my right shoulder started playing up leaving me in constant pain. Eventually I opted for surgery, which was done nearly 3 weeks ago. Fortunately it was arthroscopic this time, with just an overnight stay in Bethesda Hospital in Claremont. Recovery has been excellent so far, but I am not allowed near the chainsaw or other heavy work for another month or so.
That was enough of an excuse for this trip........
Sunday 14 May 2017:
After a late night on Saturday, with Jean & I having a good time at a 20th Anniversary Dinner at Faber Winery in the Swan Valley, I set off mid morning via Toodjay and Goomalling for Dowerin, the first stop on North Eastern Wheatbelt Drive Trail.
There is a great booklet & map available from Tourist Bureaux, that has heaps of information and a 2 CD set with stories and history from the area. More information at www.wheatbeltway.com.au/
Very quiet in Dowerin on a Sunday.
We have been here many times for the annual Field Days (usually expensive as there is always some new toy wanting to be bought). The Field Days are an invasion of so many people, so different to see the town on a normal day.
I can also highly recommend the blog of a fellow Bushtracker owner, Stephen, who covered much of this trail on a trip in 2012. Have a look at http://farcanal.blogspot.com.au/2012/11/was-granite-loop-trail.html - yet another great blog over many years.
From Dowerin, I ventured on the gravel to Minnivale, then on to Wyalkatchem, dirverting for a look at Korrelocking Reserve, before heading North to Koorda and then the Koorda Native Flora Reserve. Most of the bushland in not that spectacular at this time of year, but comes alive after the Winter rains and the start of wildflower season. Lot of huge paddocks with last year's stubble (some burnt off) and signs of a few farmers starting to spray or seed in the hope of some late Autumn rains.
Back to the bitumen for a trip further East to Bencubbin, where I stopped for a cuppa and something to eat. Apart from 3 cars outside the pub, it was another ghost town. I headed 5km South to Marshall Rock where I decided to camp for the night. Quite a large local bush recreation area with barbeque pits, local information and a great new "dry" toilet, spotlessly clean, with extra rolls of toilet paper and even magazines left to read for long term toilet sitters.
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| Great level camping at Marshall Rock - just the flies and me until the Sun went down. |
Pretty bushland and very pleasant to have it all to myself.
Monday:
In the morning, I returned to Bencubbin, hoping the Cafe I had seen yesterday would be open, but it was not to be. However, across the road was the local Resource Centre, another one of the many benefits to small communities from "Royalties for Regions" that I have seen in my travels in WA. I had a good natter with Karen, who was manning the desk and received a lowdown on the area, plus a couple of recommendations for places to visit in Westonia and Nungarin. I also sampled some local Sandalwood nuts and bought a pack plus some Jarrah honey & sandalwood nougat - with luck some may get home for Jean.....
I drove North to Beacon and was pleasantly surprised by a spacious small community, home to about a 100 people with more on surrounding farms. Refuelled at a card operated Southern fuels (BP) bowser and then visited the general store. One small supermarket, plus hot food cooked to order, including the monster "Beacon Burger". I restrained myself and had a toasted bacon and egg sandwich, which was excellent, plus a coffee from a capsule machine that was certainly better than many offered in roadhouses in the South West. Had a long chat to Jan, who was preparing the food. She & her husband have a house in NSW, but have spent much of the last 9 years travelling Australia in their caravan. Hubby was truck driving after "bin chasing" during the last harvest. Sounds like a pretty interesting lifestyle to me.
North again and on to the gravel to Billiburning Rock, close to the end of the farmed area of this part of the wheatbelt.
A number of camping areas around the rock and I walked to the top to look at the surrounding countryside. A couple of caravans set up in one of the areas.
A short distance further North, I came to the Emu Proof Fence, which was well maintained in this area.
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| Not an emu to be seen today...... |
I was surprised to find the Hall open as there didn't appear to be anyone around.
Lovely old interior and set up with child minding stuff. I guess there are enough people on farms around the area to allow it to still be used for the community.
Back on the road, Eastwards and on to Beringbooding Rock. I had a walk around in the late afternoon. It is quite a large formation, with a huge old water tank near the camping area. Walls built around the edges of the rock to capture water run off and channel it back towards the tank. No longer in use.
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| Beringbooding Rock Kangaroo Hole |
One of two large balancing boulders on the rock.
The day was disappearing fast, so I decided to camp overnight at the rock. There was already a bus and another caravan in the camping area, but still plenty of room so none of us were encroaching on the others. A light shower of rain overnight and pretty overcast in the morning.
Tuesday:
I had a bit of a sleep in and then used the weak Testra signal to set up this post of the blog and get some of it written down and photos uploaded, so I could just do a little top up each day and publish it when I am about to return home. Ah, the best of intentions.......
Set off around Noon and headed still further East then South to Elachbutting Rock. Well folks, this is the big one. Several people had told me this was the "one" but I was still a bit surprised by the scale of it. It is a bit like a mini Uluru. Not quite as high, but pretty orange and it is a 5km drive around the edges of it. I did a little walking and took a few photos below, which just do not show the scale of the beast or really do it justice.....
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| The Rock Vista. |
Quite a spectacular "wave". Definitely a rival for Wave Rock near Hyden.
There is a climbing wall for you.
Enough of the rocks for while. Time to head South about 100km to Westonia. Plenty more long straight stretches of gravel, before finding the bitumen about 30km out of town.
Westonia is a very pleasant, friendly small town, not far off the Great Eastern Highway. An operating gold mine (Edna May) not far from the town and accomodation for the miners next to the Caravan Park. I decided to stay in the park, even though the town provides free 72 hour RV parking in the church yard. I had read nice things in the Tourist information and on Wikicamps about the Council owned park. It is small, but with generous bays where you can stay hitched up if you wish. Spotless modern facilities and a short walk to the main street, Tavern and General Store. All for the princely sum of $15 per night. Just 9km off the Great Eastern Highway East of Merredin. Well worth a diversion if you are travelling East or West.
I had a walk around town and took a few photos. Looking forward to visiting the Museum in the morning. It was one of those highly recommended to me at the Bencubbin Resource Centre.
The very beautiful heritage Westonia Tavern. Maybe tomorrow.....
A modern facade recreating the way the old town used to look.
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| Westonia - a Tourist Mine structure right in the middle of the main street |
Wednesday:
The Hood-Penn Museum, operated by the Westonia Shire Council is just fabulous. Essentially a private collection donated to the shire as long as it was housed together and displayed. Supplemented by other items from other locals. Housed in a special building, accessed by the Shire Office. For the very reasonable entry fee of $3 it is a must visit in Westonia. Many of the smaller items are housed in beautiful pristine old Jarrah cabinets and display cabinets that were purchased via an Auction from the Perth Mint. I can't believe they sold them. Virtually impossible to replace these days. A selection of photos below.
The Barman at work...
From the local ambulance group.
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| Such a great collection. |
Oldest building in town. The Miners Hall in the Main Street.
A lot of effort has gone into retaining the old character of the Main Street of Town.
The "old" Post Office. The new Post Office is part of the local Cooperative General Store. They also make a good toasted bacon & egg sandwich to order.
Not far out of town is the Edna May Goldmine operated by Evolution Mining. I am sure it is very helpful in the survival of Westonia. The mine accomodation & mess is located in town adjacent to the Caravan Park.
The open pit mine covers quiet a large area, but is not obvious despite being quite close to town.
The mine processing plant is located next to the open pit.
Rather than follow the next section of the Drive Trail, I decided to divert to Merredin on the Great Eastern Highway and visit Mukinbudin a day or so later.
I had a great coffee at the Dimensional Cafe and Wellness Centre, next to the Post Office following a recommendation from the Visitor Centre. Then I headed for the Old Station Museum, across the main East-West Railway Line from Town. It occupies all of the old station and is another very worthwhile visit. $5 for Adults and at around 2pm I was the first visitor for that day. Sam the volunteer said it can vary quite a bit, but sometimes very quiet.
The side of the elevated old signal box.
Unusually, quite a doll collection amongst the extensive railway memoriabila.
Inside one of the old closed wagons on the track.
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| Great views from the old Signal House. Well worth the climb. |
The old water tower near the Highway.
Collection includes a diesel loco, old steam engine and quite a range of old rolling stock next to the platform. You are welcome to climb aboard many of the wagons and both locomotives.
To finish my day, I took a leisurely drive to Nungarin about 40km to the North to rejoin the Drive Trail. Stayed at the Caravan Park at the Recreational Centre just out of town. I was the only resident tonight.
No need to worry about being packed in here.
Thursday:
Well, today turned out to be "Museum" day beginning with a longer than planned visit to the Nungarin Military Museum. Located in a large Jarrah building that was built in about 1942 as an Army vehicle workshop, part of a large military base from WW2. Located just on the edge of town.
As I arrived, Bill, Jo and another volunteer were sitting down to a cuppa with scones and cake. I was invited to join them and heard a lot about the place, not to mention many of their relations and many other topics. By the time I escaped from their clutches, it was nearly time for them to shut the doors so they could leave for a medical appointment. However, I did have time to have a look around and see the large collection of military vehicles, tractors, memorabila and "other stuff". Like so many things, it relies on aging volunteers, grants and local goodwill. It is slightly shambolic, but another recent Lotterywest Grant should help organise & display some of the items in a more tourist friendly way. Unfortunately Bill is "getting on in years" and much of the knowledge, history and how the place actually functions would pass with him, unless some "new blood" is found. A few of many photographs I took follow.
Outside, many vehicles of all types, mostly rusting away.
The inside collection in better condition.
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| So much stuff...... |
From Nungarin, after a brief stop at the Cemetery to take a photo of the Memorial Gate and a short walk around I drove North & East towards Mukinbudin.
By chance I had the afternoon before corresponded with Mark Smith from our local volunteer Bushfire Brigade and discovered that Mark's Great Great Great Grandmother, Jane Adams was a rural pioneer in the area and recognised at the Cemetery for her walk. Also one of the recommended stops on the Drive Trail is Mangowine Homestead, the Adams family home & Inn that has been restored and National Trust (& Shire) operated. Mark's Mother grew up there and Steve Payne, another member of our Brigade is a first Cousin. Again such a small world we live in.
Bob is the resident caretaker, and quite a "Bushie" I also heard a lot from him about the Family, the National Trust, the Shire, Royalties for Regions, the general state of the bush, plus a few comments about Bill from the Military Museum. I was looking for a quiet place to go by the end of it. Some of the rooms have been recreated quite well and a lot of work has gone into the place.
The Inn in front, Homestead behind.
The old bar in the Inn.
The restored Homestead kitchen.
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| A relic from another time at Mangowine |
I was going to stay overnight in the Shire Caravan Park, but it was still a little early, so I turned around and drove to Trayning, where I did stay in the local Shire Park. Great value at $22 per night with spotless sites and facilities, but a large pool next door. It would be a useful stopover in the Summer time. Lennie & Caroline the resident Caretakers were very welcoming and apart from them, there was only one other van on site. Plenty of room for everyone.
Friday 19 May 2017:
After packing up, I decided to visit Cunderdin today and took the drive via Wyalkatchem. During that drive some of the rain arrived, hopefully the start of more for the grain growers, after a record dry April. Seeding is in process, but without more rain this year could be a bad one, after the last two very good seasons. I arrived in Cunderdin around 11:30am and decided to have a look and some lunch at the "Ettamogah" pub in town. Based on a cartoon from the old Australasian Post Magazine, there are a few of these pubs in NSW and Qld, with just one in WA. Very nice inside, but the pub food was pretty ordinary which is a bit of a shame.
Tractor display and the No 3 Pump Station
The main pump room displays.
A little bit of history. What a build.....
The remaining restored steam pump. There were originally 3 of these plus boilers in the pump room.
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| Inside the chimney flue. |
One of Cunderdin's most famous "Daughters".
Following my very pleasant walk around and listen to a number of clever audio / visual presentations, I continued West to Meckering where I camped overnight at a free RV friendly site that the town has provided. When I arrived, there was just me, but by sunset there were two more caravans, two camper trailers plus a car and a van. A well used facility, but still plenty of room and I didn't feel hemmed in.
There is a new factory outlet for beef jerky nearby, which is also a Cafe with proper expresso coffee, fresh food & cakes plus a number of handmade gifts. Called Coltons Beef Jerky Company. They have put a lot of effort attention into the new premises. I hope they make it. A tough gig in a small country town off the edge of the main highway.
Tomorrow I will drive home via Northam and Toodyay, so I will finish this blog here. I think I have probably gone a bit over the top this time and written too much. It is beginning to feel a bit of a chore, so I will give it some thought before my next excursion and planned major trip East again in October or November.
Give me some feedback on what you think about it please........












































