27 June to 2 July 2016 - The Road West back to WA

I left Streaky Bay at 8:30am on Mon 27 June.  Pretty early for me and a calm, clear, sunny morning.  Had an easy drive to Ceduna, where I had a good breakfast of bacon & eggs with a reasonable flat white coffee at the Blue Dolphin Cafe in the middle of town.  Had been there before and had a good coffee.  Nice range of salads if you are there for lunch anytime.

Then a small top up of more eggs, milk & some frozen veg at the local Foodland Supermarket (last before Quarantine at Border Village & a smallish "super"market at Norseman).  By this time I was listening to the replay of the 2011 Richard Fidler Conversation with recently retired WA Breakfast Presenter, Eoin Cameron (who died last Thursday night) on ABC Radio.  A great interview.  Eoin was such a character and could tell a wonderful story.  So sad to see him die of a heart attack at 65 after only just retiring in March due to health problems from a couple of nasty accidents.

I had planned to stay overnight at the caravan park at Penong, about 80km further West and fill up the Bushtracker water tanks there.  However, I was able to fill them at the BP Roadhouse at Ceduna and as it was still early when I arrived at Penong, I continued West.

Gently rolling hills of crops and sheep grazing country, way out West at Penong.

I topped up with diesel at Nundroo Roadhouse (last reasonably priced diesel at 128c/l before Eucla) and found a spot to camp in the bush (from Wikicamps) about 10km East of Yalata, a small Aboriginal Community just off the Eyre Highway.  Good spot, about 150 metres off the road in the bush, flat, with a reasonable Telstra signal and deserted, so I was able to update the blog to here and catch up on some email. 

A bush sunrise near Yalata, not far from the start of the real Nullarbor.

 and this is what the start of the "real" Nullarbor Plain looks like.

Nice steady drive across until I was nearly at the Nullarbor Roadhouse, when I came across the turnoff to the Head of Bight.  During my last two crossings I kept going, largely because it is within about 20km of the Roadhouse.  However, this time I decided to have a look as it was (June) right in peak whale watching time.  The coast and the access area for viewing is 12km on a sealed road from the Eyre Highway.

You shouldn't miss the sign for Head of Bight.

I was very impressed.  The facility has been upgraded and is run for the benefit of an Aboriginal Corporation.  New visitor centre, paved access and new boardwalks and shelters (from the very cold wind).  $15 admission for Adults and $12 for Seniors.  Heaps of Southern right whales to be be seen and stunning views of the coastline and the start of the Bunda Cliffs.  Highly recommended by PJ.

Lots of whales & their calves relaxing in the shallow waters.

Stunning views of the coastline.

The Eastern edge of the Bunda Limestone Cliffs.

The stylish Head of Bight Visitor Centre.

Back to the Highway and then not too far to the Nullarbor Roadhouse, which includes a tavern, restaurant, shop, accommodation and basic caravan park (but no water supply for vans).  I stopped for a cup of tea & some lunch in the van.  Last time I visited the roadhouse it was about $10 for a bacon & egg toasted sandwich and fuel is close to the most expensive on the East - West crossing.

The "new" Nullarbor Roadhouse - fairly flat.

Just next to the caravan park was the "old" Nullarbor Servo, which I don't remember from the last time....

Back on the road and as you get closer to Border Village the road returns close to the coastline and there are a number of places you can stop and look at the majestic cliffs which stretch for a very long way.....

The mighty Australian Bight cliffs looking back to the East, as far as the eye can see.  Another stunning but cold day with temperature in the mid teens (C) and a chilling breeze blowing.

I stopped at a rest point about 10km short of Border Village & followed the tracks in approximately 200m off the road, past a couple of vans until I found a nice private and level spot in the bush to camp.  Didn't see a soul until I left the next morning and the Milky Way was stunningly bright in the dark sky until moon rise.

I passed through the Quarantine Station into WA fairly early next morning and went straight from South Australian to Western Australian time (90 minutes difference).  I didn't worry about the interim Central Western time that is observed from there, through Eucla, Cocklebiddy and nearly to Caiguna.  I had used up most of my fresh salad and veg, but had kept a few items I was not sure of.  Unfortunately I had to forfeit the Kiwifruit, but was allowed to keep some fresh carrots and ginger.

At Eucla I refuelled and descended down onto the coastal plain for the long flat drive all the way until the Madura Pass, where you climb back up the escarpment.  I stopped at Mundrabilla Roadhouse for another fuel top up to minimise the more expensive fuel stops until you get to Norseman.

Exciting Roadhouse at Mundrabilla.  Good cook there.  A regular stop for the truckies and some nice cakes on offer as well....

Had a look at this magnificent horse (& people) transport rig at the roadhouse stop.  They were on their way to an event in Sydney with two horses, that had been out for a walk around and break from the journey.

 I stopped for lunch at the lookout at the top of the Madura Pass and had some lunch, before driving on past Cocklebiddy until about 10km short of Caiguna, where I found another pleasant camp spot off the road, with Telstra signal to check the email.  Again the stars were brilliant and the night cold & clear.

I stopped at Caiguna next morning to top up fuel and had to (unusually) pay cash as they were waiting for Telstra to fix link problems with the electronic payment system - good luck with that.

 As you leave Caiguna, you enter the "90 Mile Straight".  According to the sign, the longest straight section of road in Australia.

Another uneventful day of driving, except for seeing a dead cow by the side of the road and a few live ones crossing.  Now that would make a mess of the front end of the Landcruiser.  I had planned to stop at Fraser Range Caravan Park, a little oasis in the outback before you get to Norseman, but I was making good progress and there was still daylight, so I continued on to 10 Mile Rocks, a rest point about 100km East of Norseman.   Once again I was able to drive about 200 metres into the bush, past a couple of other vans and find a very private spot to stay overnight.

 My camp spot in the bush at 10 Mile Rocks.  Some shiny Salmon Gums around.

A very cold night with a frost on the Landcruiser in the morning.  Again the diesel heater worth its weight in gold.

In the morning I stopped at Norseman to fuel up - back to reasonable diesel price, then went into town and bought a couple of fresh tomatoes and some fruit from the local IGA.  Back on the road and this time South to Esperance.  A section of road I had never been on before.  About 2 hours drive to Esperance and interesting transition from the goldfields scrubby bush and distinctive Salmon Gums into the sandy cropping and grazing country South of the towns of Salmon Gums and Grass Patch.

In Esperance I stayed in one of the many caravan parks to top up with water and do some washing.  Quite a shock to be packed in with other fans in a fairly tight park.  Last park I had been in was at Streaky Bay, a long way back in South Australia.

Next morning after washing all the dirty stuff & hanging it out in the cold morning sunshine I went for a walk along the Esplanade.

A beautiful calm, sunny Winter day in Esperance.

Was also able to get an excellent coffee at the (new since I had been here last) Dome Cafe.  A nice treat.  

It is (Federal) election day, Saturday 2 July (finally after an 8 week campaign), so after updating the blog to here and recovering the washing I am planning to watch the results fest on ABC TV this evening and see who gets to stuff the Country up for the next three years.......