Well, as usual the time since my last trip in the Bustracker has just disappeared somewhere again. Not sure where, but it seems to accelerate each year.....
I had been working hard to try & finish all the Spring jobs at Folly Farm to a point where I could escape for a longer journey to the East, this year hoping to be away for Christmas and a good many months, assuming all goes well at home, and that Jean can cope with the dog continuing to slowly die (very slowly mind you) and the stresses associated with her Mum becoming more frail and Dementia steadily taking hold. Not to mention the horses.
So on a very hot forecast day, Thursday 16 November 2017, I rolled out the gate of Folly Farm around 8am and set off for the Great Eastern Highway via Toodyay and along the Avon River to Northam. Nice feeling to be starting out and everything was cruising along just nicely. I stopped off in Kellerberrin for a coffee and to stretch the legs, which were still pretty tender from lots of "whipper snippering" of the late Spring grass and helping out on three Brigade Hazard Reduction burns in the weeks leading up to my escape. Did I mention that I rolled my ankle as well. Becoming an old fart all too quickly.
Next stop was Merredin for a lunch break and more coffee. I parked under a large old native fig tree, which turned out to be a mistake, as the cockies raided the fruit and covered my nice clean Landcruiser with bird shit and bits of fig. Unfortunately at the same time I noticed that my Anderson Plug (charging power) connection from the car to the caravan had dislodged and had been dragging on the road, which had worn half of it away........not impressed, but not critical in the big picture of what goes wrong with caravans. On the list to get replaced when somewhere that has a caravan repairer or auto electrician.
The day continued with temperatures around 38 deg C. Not pleasant for stopping long anywhere, so I kept on driving and ended up in Norseman around sunset. Around 700km for the day, which is a big one for me. Stopped in a free camp on the edge of town, along with about 15 other vans, but a big space so no crowding needed. Lots of midges as soon as the sun went down, but managed to keep most of them outside and the breeze cooled down for a decent sleep.
Lots of room and flat ground in Norseman in the early morning light.
Friday morning I was up early and pressed on to the East. Again a hot day, so kept on going with stops at Balladonia, Caiguna, Cocklebiddy, Mundrabilla and finally Border Village (East of Eucla) though to around 7pm, by which time it was dark. Well over 700 km again and I camped in a gravel pit area sheltered from the road and the strong overnight wind. Very close to the Coast so after another hot day the breeze turned cool during the night.
Wow. South Australia in two days driving with the caravan. A new record for me, but not something I would want to do on a regular basis. Next stop was one of the scenic views along the limestone cliffs of the Great Australian Bight.
I stopped at Nullarbor Roadhouse for another surprisingly good coffee. Sat inside and read my email and enjoyed the coffee with temp reaching 39 deg C outside. The sign just past the roadhouse captured my attention again as it is so reflective of Australia.
Camels, wombats and kangaroos. Wot next.....
I drove on to Nundroo Roadhouse and refueled. Much cheaper fuel than Nullarbor but very rundown and toilets not to be visited unless in grave emergency. Thought about driving to the coast to visit Fowlers Bay, but decided to go on to Penong and stop at the caravan park for a couple of nights to recuperate. Still very hot so first pleasure was to plug in to mains power and stick the aircon on and recover with a short nap.
Penong is a very pleasant tiny rural town with much history and a very practical and spotless small caravan park for travellers. Nearby is a fabulous windmill park.
All sorts and sizes, including the largest windmill (head) in Australia, restored by a dedicated small group of locals to promote their town and give people a reason to stop. Very impressive.
On a morning walk I discovered quite a collection of wrecked cars at the back edge of Town. They cover quite a long period of history for by the looks of it.
About 25km away from Penong is Cactus Beach, which is (apparently) a well known classic surfing beach. Not a lot of swell whilst I was there, but you can see how there would be some good breaks on a decent day.
Nice sheltered camping near the beach and a little further on is Point LeHunte, which is on the other side of the small peninsular and has a boat ramp, swimming enclosure and a jetty. With local harvest finished, there were plenty of Sunday picnics and fishing trips in progress.
On the road in there are a couple of salt lakes and one side of a causeway is distinctly pink.
Not unlike the pink lake at Port Gregory in Western Australia.
Was nice to have a day to wind down a little and do some walking after 3 long driving days.
Monday morning (20 Nov) I took the short drive into Ceduna. Went through Quarantine on the outskirts of town (had used up all my fresh fruit and veg this time and had two apple cores for their bin). Refueled at the nearby large BP roadhouse and then went into town. Did a refresh shop at the large modern Foodland store and visited the Post Office to send off a surprise package to Jean. Will be interesting to see how long it takes from Ceduna to Gidgegannup. After yet another excellent coffee at the Blue Dolphin Cafe (visited on previous journeys) I headed down the Flinders Highway to Streaky Bay for a couple of days.
This time I stayed at the very new Islands Caravan Park, located about 4km out of town. Wonderful ablutions and facilities, owned by a Western Australian Businessman who has (reputedly) invested about $8 million in setting it all up, including a solar system and large desalination plant to provide fresh water from the nearby bay. Very impressive and reasonably priced at $33 per night for a powered generously sized caravan site with lovely sweet water to top up the Bushtracker tanks. Only downside is that Telstra mobile signal is a bit variable and not the best for full on internet access. Another first world problem.
Of course one of my reasons for returning to Streaky Bay is a feed of local King George Whiting from the local pub. The salad has got smaller, the bread roll disappeared, but the quality of the KGW and good chips still make it a worthwhile stopover, with a cold beer....
Streaky Bay Jetty from the front deck of the pub as the sun goes down.
It is now Tuesday afternoon, with a warm humid wind still blowing. A Southerly cool change is due tomorrow and should last for 3 or 4 days. After some discussion with old friends Ann & Ric who live in the Adelaide Hills, I had hoped to visit Hiltiba Station which located to the West of Gawler Ranges National Park and is managed by the Nature Foundation SA. However, they have just shut down external visitors for the rest of the hot Summer and high Bush Fire risk Season. Maybe I will do it on the way back home if they have reopened as I pass by.
Anyway, to take advantage of the short cooler weather window, I am planning to visit Gawler Ranges National Park, North of the Eyre Highway from Minnipa and spend 3 or 4 nights off the grid camping out in the bush, which hopefully will be quiet and full of interesting things to see and do. Next installment when I return to decent mobile coverage and can summon the enthusiasm to write some more......have to admit that Facebook posting of a few photos and brief comment is becoming a more attractive option every day. Perhaps some of you recalcitrants should take it up just for me........
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