I left Bright around 9am and headed North to Yackandanda. Quite a foggy start to the day, so a cautious drive through lovely green dairy country. Some of you may recall that Yackandanda was featured on the ABC TV programme "Back Roads". Another old gold mining town with many old wooden buildings with a number of small "bric a brac" shops and cafes.
A pretty streetscape on a grey overcast morning.
The local community has worked hard together to keep the small town viable in an age when people are leaving rural areas.
I stopped for a coffee and a walk around. From Yackandanda I continued North and then East along the Murray Valley Highway to Corryong. Originally I had planned to camp by the River at nearby Towong, but after a visit to the Tourist Information changed my mind. Yet again, spending a bit of time talking to locals opened up a range of other things and places to see.
I had a walk around the townsite and checked out a few cafes that were either empty or closing after lunch.
Outside the Community Hall I found the statue of "Horrie the Wog Dog". The original had been smuggled back from Egypt after World War II and survived for a couple of years before Quarantine caught up with him.
Next to the Tourist Information is this statue of The Man from Snowy River. Each year in April the town hosts a Man from Snowy River Bush Festival to celebrate everything "Country". Sounds like it would be good fun.
I had a pie for lunch at the Community Bakery, but it was pretty ordinary. I then decided to continue on to Khancoban across the border in NSW. It is a small town set up for Snowy Hydro workers servicing the Murray 1 & 2 power stations, part of the original Snowy Mountains Scheme to provide hydro electric power to both Victoria and New South Wales. It is situated at the edge of the Kosciuszko National Park.
I stayed for a couple of nights at the Khancoban Lakeside Caravan Park right next to the large Khancoban Pondage, part of the water release / storage system from the Murray 2 Power Station. The park is part of the Kui Parks network, which in general I have found to be excellent in many locations around Australia. They feature well run small caravan parks, that are good value, very clean but without all the "bells and whistles" that families traveling with children are usually looking for. This one was no exception with brand new facilities as part of a family business refurbishing an old park. It is in a beautiful place, so I hope it does well for them.
On Wednesday I took a drive up the valley a little further to the hydro power station.
The Murray 1 Power Station, further up the valley is undergoing a significant upgrade, so a temporary Visitor Centre has been set up at the number 2 station. Beautiful location on another grey overcast and cold day.
The huge inlet water pipes (from Murray Power Station 1) feed down the hill into Station 2. They are full of water and ready to deliver at the touch of a button in the Control Centre at Cooma in NSW.
The discharge channel into the Pondage looks very peaceful on the bleak and cold day.
As part of the Eastern Electricity Grid, the hydro stations operate only intermittently when demand (& associated prices) are high.
Power station inspections run at 11am and 2pm either daily or on week days depending on the season. You get a video show, view inside and a presenter who knows her stuff and is happy to take as many questions as you may have. I enjoyed myself along with the other four people there on the day.
On the way back to Khancoban is a huge 'transformer farm" and a large regional workshop. Snowy Hydro is good at providing regular employment to around 2,000 people including quite a few in more remote and rural areas. Snowy 2.0 announced by the Liberal Federal Government last year will be another large and long term project.
Thursday 9 May 2019.
I headed North and then West, this time along the Murray River Road, much closer to the actual river, which was pretty healthy looking upstream in this part of the world. A very pleasant drive through pretty cattle country with mountain backdrops.
Along the way, I passed through Thologolong, which I discovered was birthplace of the Murray Grey cattle breed.
The river continues to the West into Lake Hume, with water levels very low and the river channeling through the base of the lake. I stopped for a coffee and some lunch at a Cafe at Lake Hume Village which is next to the Hume Dam.
Dam building started between the World Wars and was completed in 1936. It was the largest in the Southern Hemisphere and one of the largest engineering achievements in the world at that time.
Water levels in the dam are very low. Currently only 14.3% of capacity as I write this.
The dam was designed for flood mitigation, irrigation and generation of hydro electric power.
Nearby is a monument commemorating the crossing of the river by the Hume and Hovell Expedition in 1824 (first crossing of the river by "White Men").
I drove on into Albury and did some shopping at an Aldi and then Coles Supermarket, which were well located across the road from each other. I was even able to find convenient parking for the Landcruiser with caravan. Often a challenge.
I had been looking for camping and/or caravan parks around the Albury - Wodonga area in Wikicamps. Most had very poor reviews, so I widened the search a little and found Lake Anderson Caravan Park in Chiltern, a fairly short drive to the West along the Hume Freeway. The park had excellent reviews, nice sites in a beautiful location, 3 minutes walk from the (wot another) Historic small Town. Great spot, but some noise from a nearby rail line and the Freeway. Not a problem for a deaf person. Right next door to the local football oval, so free entertainment on Saturday.
On Friday there was some heavy rain, so I had a quiet day with an excursion to Rutherglen and the Tourist Information Centre late in the afternoon. Managed to finish up the previous chapter of the blog and after a number of frustrating gmail security issues finally was able to send out an email advice. I have no problems with the iPhone or iPad, but as soon as I try to send something from Gmail via Outlook on my laptop from a new location, Google locks down the account. Much cursing and swearing. During the afternoon I made an online lunch booking at the Terrace Restaurant at All Saints Winery for Saturday.
Saturday 11 May 2019.
In the morning I did an overdue two loads of washing and got it on the line in the sunshine and cold wind, then farted around before leaving for the trip to All Saints Estate, north of Rutherglen near Wahgunyah, quite close to the Murray River.
The estate grounds and buildings are very impressive.
The estate was established in 1864 and the current building was apparently modelled on The Castle of Mey in Caithness, which was a previous residence of the Late Queen Mother.
Beautiful formal gardens and fountain.
The Cellar Door tasting area inside was equally impressive. The Terrace Restaurant appears as a much more recent addition under a semi-permanent marquee looking out to side gardens and a lake.
The restaurant is extremely well organised and staffed with very skilled and professional waiters (fairly rare in Australia in general).
It is rated as a "one hat" establishment, which I assume is better than no hats but not as good as two hats. Anyway it is a good restaurant but I would rate two of the three dishes I had as just slightly below my expectations. I chose the 3 course lunch with accompanying wine for each course. A shame I had to taste the wine sparingly as I needed to drive home because it was very good, especially a 2016 Shiraz with the main course. There were 4 or 5 choices for each course. My selections below.
Entree was (lightly) smoked Murray River cod, with small creamy dollops. Fish was nice, but I thought the dish just a little plain.
The main course was described as 10 hour cooked lamb shoulder and was served in a complex bean and tomato mix. Although tasty and tender, it was still a shoulder chop.
The chocolate fondant with ice cream was excellent, small but very rich and filling. A liqueur muscat came with the desert and I had a very good flat white coffee to wash away the sweetness. All in all, above average, especially service and attention to detail, but two of my choices were just a little below my expectations. I surprised myself how disciplined I was in leaving a good portion of the wine in the glass each course.
On the way back to Chiltern, I stopped at Rutherglen Estates Cellar Door which is right in town. The old building dates back to 1866 and was part of Seppelts Wines for over a hundred years. The Cellar Door is now very modern inside with the Tuileries Restaurant / Cafe as part of the complex. The estate is now owned by De Bortoli Wines. I spoke with Robyn in the quiet tasting room, which turned out to be a real bonus as she lives locally and has been doing the job for about 17 years. Very knowledgeable and some excellent wines. I particularly liked a Zinfandel and two different Durif wines they had available. Another few bottles to weigh down the caravan.
Impressive building. Parts of it are much older than immediately apparent. some beautiful stained glass windows.
The Tuileries Restaurant & Cafe next door in a similar style.
I had a safe drive back to the van and much later in the evening had a small bowl of soup to make up for the extended lunch. Watched the Eagles beat St Kilda on TV at the (Marvel) Docklands Stadium in Melbourne. They (West Coast) are not looking like the Premiership team at the moment.
On Sunday (Mothers Day) 12 May, I had a catch up on the blog (I will try & keep it current this time) and did a number of small jobs around the van. A grey day, but calm and warmer than the last few. I thought about visiting one or two more wineries, but the enthusiasm had waned. Too many choices and there is no way I will ever get to all of them, despite being a much smaller area than any of the Clare, McLaren Vale or Barossa in South Australia.
Had a conversation with Ann (Calvert) about timing for a catch up with them as I pass back close to Adelaide on the way home again. I think we got it roughly sorted, but it will depend how things go between here and Mildura. Next stop Echuca tomorrow.
Monday 13 May 2019
Had a pleasant drive from Chiltern back up to the river and crossed over into NSW at Corowa. Followed along the North bank of the Murray to Lake Mulwala and then crossed back into Victoria and the sizeable rural City of Yarrawonga. Very pleasant. I stopped, had a walk through town and had an excellent coffee and serve of toasted sourdough fruit bread. Continued along the South size of the river and eventually got to Echuca. The town (combined) with Moama on the NSW side was quite a bit bigger than I thought and is obviously quite a tourist and vistor centre. Endless hotels, motels and caravan parks etc.
I had already booked into Coco Bend Caravan Park, on the NSW side and about the furtherest park from town. I did that based on it being a Kui Park, which is an association of parks of a certain type and standard, generally smaller, good value, often family owned and not concentrating on families with children, so usually a bit quieter with more grey nomad type clients. The park was large in area with grassed sites, beside the River Murray and virtually empty. Only two other vans plus me.
The Murray is very peaceful, slow flowing and quiet at Coco Bend as part of a classic mature meander of the river.
Mature River Gums frame the bend of the river next to the Park.
Once set up, I took a drive into Echuca and visited the Tourist Information Centre, which is located next to the bridge over the river in an old restored engine house next to parkland, the river and a short walk from both town and the Historic Port of Eucha. I had a late afternoon walk through part of the Port and decided to return in the morning and book a paddle steamer cruise.
On Tuesday morning I returned to the Port Area and bought a ticket for a 10:15am one our cruise on the PS Alexander Arbuthnot, a genuine steamer departing from the Echuca Wharf. Even though fairly quiet there were still about three different cruise options at various times, durations and add on options. As I had about an hour to wait, I went into the Discovery Centre at the Port and bought an $8:50 Seniors ticket which gave all day access to the Wharf area and displays, plus a guided tour after the cruise at 11:30am. It was a very reasonable price with a lot to see all around the wharf area.
The adjacent sawmill was powered by similar steam engines and logs were hauled up from the river using a steam winch.
At the base of the wharf was the PS (Paddle Steamer) Alexander Arbuthnot, which I boarded soon after for a one hour cruise.
It was great to see the steam engine being fired up with wood logs for the cruise.
Also moored at the Port Wharf was the PS Adelaide, reportedly the oldest wooden operating paddle steamer in the World. Built in 1866.
There are many paddle steamers moored alongside the river at Echuca.
Also moored by the side of the wharf was a restored log carrying barge. With submerged outriggers on either side, timber was then stacked up on the transverse logs, with each barge carrying up to several hundred tons of redgum. Steamer could tow two or three barges with crew members actively steering each to navigate the river bends.
There is good walking access under the restored wharf area. The height allows the port to cope with drastic and large changes in water flow in the river. As recently as 2016 floods caused significant damage to parts of the port area.
At the end of the line was an interesting sign showing how different the various state rail gauges were. A great deterrent to interstate rail travel until relatively recent times. The first Perth to Sydney Indian Pacific train only ran in early 1970. Not long ago for some of us.
Following the Discovery Centre walking tour I had a look around the port area at the many shops, cafes and pubs. I was grateful it was quiet, but I am sure the traders would prefer the mayhem of holiday season.
On Thursday I continued Westwards to Mildura, which I have visited on previous trips. Again I stayed at the beautiful Buronga Tourist Park by the banks of the river on the NSW side.
The river is stunning around Mildura and Buronga, with a few relics of previous time remaining.
including this black swan, which is obviously used to being fed by visitors and with a number of friends invaded my pad next to the caravan. No bread from PJ...
I had one lunch at Stefano's Cafe, which I thought was not quite up to the standard I had experienced in the past. It may have just been my choice, so I went back for breakfast on Saturday morning.
Sunday 19 May 2019
After a few restful days I packed up again and headed further West, then South West to Murray Bridge, back in South Australia. It had got very wet again, so I stopped overnight in a nice small caravan park before continuing my journey back to Rick & Ann's place in the Adelaide Hills.
Always nice to be back in what seems to almost be my second home in recent times, with the caravan set up again down the hill from the house near Gnome Cottage.
Monday and Tuesday were quiet with Ann working. Ric and I had a couple of small outings for shopping and we enjoyed sharing one of the large servings of ham and cheese toastie (sorry no picture) plus excellent coffee at the Pallet Cafe in the main street of Nairn again. Old blokes can be pretty boring when they find something they like. Ric is an excellent cook so it was nice to be spoiled yet again with great home cooking after a couple of months in the van.
On Wednesday, a day off for Ann, we had a pleasant outing in the Hills. First stop, the Leather Shop in Hahndorf, which is quite amazing. Very touristy, but an incredible range of excellent handmade leather items including bags, clothing, hats and belts.
Next stop was nearby Stirling, another beautiful town where we had coffee, hot chocolate (for me) and did a bit of gift shopping at Red Cacao (www.redcacao.com.au). The range of hand made chocolates was impressive and the owner very attentive.
Lunch time, so we had decided on a visit to the Worst Pub in Euraidla.
Next door is the Euraidla Brewery and the Euraidla Bakery, also purveyors of excellent produce.
On the other side of the building is the "Euraidla's Best Pub" sign. In fact, it is the ONLY Pub in Euraidla, so really no argument.
Interesting urinals in the men's toilets.
Ric and PJ before lunch.
Lunch was in fact very good, as were the locally brewed beers that we tried.
Ric had the huge Euraidla Burger with chips.
Thursday was a quiet day. Ric and Ann had a company visiting to refine quotes and installation for double glazing work in the morning, so I went into Mount Barker to do some food shopping for my journey home.
In the afternoon I returned to Mount Barker with Ric to visit the local fish shop and pick up some Coorong Mullet for dinner. As always he prepared a wonderful meal which was supplemented with some lubrication from the Barossa. Ah the good life.
Ric shows one of their "monster" feijoas, which we have all been enjoying for breakfasts. The bushes are in full production, so I have a large bag to eat before I get to the quarantine station at the WA Border
Time to go home. On Friday morning (24 May) I packed up the van said my goodbyes and started another journey home.
A good opportunity to publish this section of the trip and get my act together for the well travelled ground across South Australia and Western Australia back to Folly Farm.
Bummer about the Satelite dish. Hope it doesn’t leak. Wonderful journey. Safe travels
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